Getting Leh'd

I just returned from Leh after a weeklong adventure, and have been wondering all this time how places get names like gods own country, and pearls and diamonds and all other precious names, when we have this place, like very few places on earth, with towering mountains as far as the eye can see, that look like creations of some ancient alien presence, with snow capped peaks in the middle of summer, turquoise rivers carving their way down to the valleys and wild ponies and yaks grazing all over the countryside and small remote villages that get covered in snow during the harsh winter, that contrary to reality, make for beautiful postcard pictures.

What started off as a trip of a bunch of school mates that have stayed dear friends, it turned out to be a trip of a bunch of crazy fun people with some new friends and some old all heading out to see our old school mate Randy, a crazy naughty football fanatic, now Colonel Vaz, Special forces, pride of the Indian army, and super hero to us, his friends. Ashwin, great photographer and childhood friend and Diem, one of my closest friends, decided to start at Chandigarh and drive our way up, acclimatizing along the way to save time, or at least that was the plan, but nothing is truer than the old saying about  nature being a great servant but a bad master. Ravi of Manali Backpackers, our trusted driver and guide, recomended we stop for a late brunch at the first decent looking dhaba en route, because our plan was to eat as local as possible. Sunny dhaba was vegetarian but the aromas emanating from the kitchen were irresistible. We ordered a variety of Paranthas and something called soya chaap, which sounded like something new and exotic. The paranthas were deliciously drenched in butter and the soya chaap, that sounded quite unique was actually soya chop,  a new product that makes soya look like chunks of chicken kebabs. It was delicious. Soon after, we started our ascent, taking in the breath taking views as we wound our way up through the mountains. We stopped for tea later in the evening at a place making Jalebis, fresh and to order.

They were crunchy and popped in the mouth and the syrup was just right, sticky yet not overly sweet. 

 We arrived, a few hours later at our beautiful home stay in Manali, The Shobla Pine Royal, which had a lovely fireplace in the reception area, with parquet flooring and warm pinewood finishing and an equally impressive guest room with all amenities. 

The true beauty of the room became apparent to us in the morning when we were awoken with absolute silence, broken by random cheeps from birds and the relaxing sound of the river flowing by in the distance. Unfortunately this was only a transit stop and so as soon as we were done with our breakfast we headed out towards Leh. 

For lunch we stopped at a small shed made with corrugated metal sheets and an interior as warm as it was rustic. Simple tables and benches lines with thick woolen carpets which could be converted in to beds in the night, lined the sides and cold hungry faces waited to be served whatever was being cooked for the day. 

We were served hot steaming rice, thick lightly spiced Rajma, a slow cooked lamb curry and just green chillies, sliced onion and sliced radish as sides. Finger licking, soul warming, deliciously simple or simply delicious would be the most apt adjectives that would come to mind in regards to this meal.

Now out of breath from lack of oxygen and tired from hours of driving, having crossed thirteen thousand feet, we resigned to a small lodge in a town called Jispa. Bikers from all over poured in from all directions to show their backsides some mercy. Our dinner was just an average chicken curry and rotis, nothing to write home about. With a long way still to go we set out at dawn on our last grueling leg of the journey to Leh, through more winding roads and other winding rock paths with impatient Indian drivers zooming around as if those un barricaded hundred meter or more drops were fictional. Travelling to leh is like an episode of the worlds deadliest roads on National geographic.

After crossing the second and third highest motor able passes in the world, playing with snow and almost collapsing from breathlessness, eating Maggi noodles, drinking countless cups of tea, stopping for bathroom breaks an equal amount of times and taking silly selfies and mad videos, we finally arrived in Leh, where we were escorted straight to the guest room at one of the military units where Randy made sure we were checked to make sure all was ok with our vitals. After a good nights sleep and a reasonable amount of decompression, against Randy’s order to rest, we set out to discover. A short hour of walking around the market area like asthma patients we decided to obey orders and relax and try again later in the evening. Refreshed with hot showers a tasty vegetarian lunch and strong tea, we set out again. This time to a recommended eating spot whos menu was like its name, Eclectic. En route we dropped in to a tiny Wazwan kiosk that looked too tempting to pass up. We had sheek kebabs and lamb kebabs served with a yoghurt salad and Rumali Rotis which really hit the spot. 

We walked around some more looking to buy souvenirs and rebuild our appetites before our main meal at the eclectic kitchen. We skipped through the Pizzas and pastas and other European food straight to what they were famous for, Tibetan Momos and Thukpa . The momos were juicy and the dipping sauce hot, the Thukpa was a creamy mutton variant with potatoes and we also had a mutton stir fry that was spicy and delicious accompanied by steamed buns that were light and fluffy but a tad too big either because of the yeast, or because the chef saw all big guys on the table. The dessert didn’t score too many any brownie points, but the company of Sherab, one of the pretty partners in the restaurant, and WiFi after days made it a good evening

The next day we left for Tangse, one big Millitary camp, for all practical purposes, and as beautiful as it is remote. Randy was worried about us and wanted us to rest as soon as we got to camp, so we decided to visit the Pangong lake before we were detained on arrival at the camp.

 It’s a tourist spot and it not always good for the spot when everybody wants to come there and be an Idiot, as if three weren’t enough. Right from the yellow scooter parked on the banks, to fifty percent of the shacks there being called Rancho, its got everything a touristy place has got. What it has though that no other has, is a lake with the most gorgeous hues of turquoise and aquamarines that you will ever see.  After a million selfies and panoramas and our silly trademark #idiotsinmotion and some calls from Randy to find out why the hell we hadn’t arrived yet, we headed to base camp where we were greeted by some wild ponies right at the gate of the base. Lunch was with Randy and his officers and some stellar army style service that us civillians are not used to. We relaxed a chatted for a while and then I was off to get my 20 minute dose of oxygen to help me breath. The next morning we came out into the warm sun to thaw from the previous nights chill. We got the most amazing hair cut and Tel Maalish surrounded by snowcapped mountains sitting in the early morning sun yet getting a chilly wind blowing to freeze all the exposed extremities of our bodies. 

 After a hot day at the firing range where we tested our aim and lived out every man’s fantasy of firing weapons  that are not just meant for Diwali or Ganesh, and I must say it was a tad bit too exhilarating. Then we took a tour of the camp and saw a river full of trout that, unlike Alaska where you cannot fish for salmon without a license. You cannot fish period. it was like looking through a window of a shop with a ‘closed’, or rather ‘do not open’ sign on it. Dinner was barbeque of a whole goat and a couple of chickens, four types of stuffed Paranthas and a Serradura that I showed the mess chef how to make. We left camp the next morning, Randy now looking forward to his leave, and we leaving with a new found respect for the life of an army man and the sacrifices he makes for his country, people, and government that absolutely don’t deserve, and the extreme conditions they have to live in while the law makers sit in their cushy offices deciding the cheapest mode of transport for the soldiers while the drive fancy cars and travel first class. 

The next morning we headed back to Leh for our last night and after all that altitude and traveling, rest assure we could breathe easy, pun intended. Ashwin and Diem were in the mood for beer and our search took us to the oldest bar and restaurant. With very rustic interiors, probably looking the same for decades, the Ibex bar and restaurant . the menu had Wazwan, Tandoori, Indian continental and Chinese, and this should have been the first sign. The Tandoor looked good so we decided to sanck and then go looking for something local for dinner. The menu as usual always has something amusing for me and this one had a special kind of Biryani.  

The Tandoori chicken was well marinated and cooked to perfection and was easily of the best I have tasted and the Naans and Parathas were light, flaky and buttery. There was this great house music and playing and it was so familiar that we just had to ask, and we were right. The owner runs a restaurant on Agonda beach during their off season, Duh! All the signs were there to see.

A few beers and several old monks later we decided to call it a night because our flight was at eighth twenty in the morning.We woke up had breakfast sat in the Gypsy and headed to the airport that was five hundred meters away. We got on to the road and it was closed by the police because of some marathon, and the part which was open was closed by the public who like all Indians find it hard to use their brakes and stop behind someone.  The next two hours was spent walking to the airport, finding out our flight was actually at seven and that we had missed it, begging with the Go air manager to put us on the next flight, checking and identifying our luggage, and finally getting on the plane with our mouths completely dry and almost completely out of breath. 

The pictures I got from the plane window as we flew away were breathtaking and it is al most unbelievable that this exists in our very own country

Leh just has to be on everyone’s bucket list, and my suggestion is to take more time, acclimatize better and no matter how arduous or daunting, the winding dangerous roads are the best way to get the best experience. Its sounds corny and cliché but I got Leh’d